TRAVEL: In celebration of covered bridges

Published 3:45 am Saturday, December 31, 2022

Our past journey through Iowa included a visit to Madison County where we explored covered bridges made famous by Robert James Waller’s popular book, “The Bridges of Madison County,” and a subsequent film of the same title. The following year we spent an afternoon visiting the six covered bridges in Rush County, Indiana, where David was born and raised.

During our youth these structures didn’t seem special. They were where we went to fish, disturb frogs, skip stones and make short stops to kiss a date. This changed in adulthood when views of covered bridges sparked childhood memories and an appreciation for the architectural beauty of these old wooden structures that now seem to bring a smile.

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Several years ago we learned of an annual festival that celebrates an Indiana county’s 31 covered bridges. After pausing our travels during the pandemic, we finally got off the dime in October and drove north to enjoy the festival.

It was somewhat cool and windy, but the sunlight on bright foliage brought back memories of our early years living in the Midwest.

Parke County, Indiana, west of Indianapolis on U.S. 36, once claimed 51½ covered bridges, with the half representing the eastern portion of a covered bridge spanning the Wabash River into neighboring Vermillion County. Parke County’s unusual collection of covered bridges resulted from being crisscrossed by numerous creeks with relatively steep banks. The many bridges that remain and continue to delight visitors like us are a tribute to the county’s residents who appreciate the history and beauty of these structures.

From the 1800’s to the early 1900’s lumber used for outdoor construction was not treated causing many bridge builders to add a covering to protect wood trusses and decks from the elements.

A covered one-lane bridge often lasted four times as long as an uncovered bridge. By the mid-1800s use of metal trusses lessened the need for roofs. An additional benefit of metal trusses was stronger bridges that could handle the heavier loads of an additional lane.

Parke County held its first covered bridge festival during a weekend in 1957. This was subsequently expanded to two weekends and has now become so popular the festival covers 10 consecutive days.

Most of the county’s small towns and villages participate with booths offering arts, crafts, antiques, food and more. We talked with several of the festival’s craftsmen who arrive each year to sell their wares.

Festivals tend to be fun, in part because of the variety of foods. In Indiana it is pork tenderloin sandwiches that have long been a specialty.

We were told by several locals to visit Mecca Tavern that has been serving breaded tenderloins since 1899. With one of us being a Hoosier native, we knew to order a single sandwich. The battered and deep-fried tenderloin filled the entire plate and fed us for two days. At $10 a pop, it may have been the festival’s best deal.

Free county maps note tour routes offering access to the bridges, 22 of which remain drivable. One of these, the 54-foot long Catlin Bridge was moved in 1961 from its original location to the local golf course where it crosses Bill Diddle Creek and is only drivable in golf carts. The covered bridges tend to be off main roads so the map is a necessity. The county seat of Rockville serves as festival headquarters and is the starting point for bus tours for visitors who prefer not to drive their own vehicle. During three days of rambling around the county we managed to visit most of Parke County’s covered bridges.

The county’s most scenic bridge, the double span 235-foot Bridgeton Bridge, was rebuilt in 2006 after being destroyed by arson in 2005. The county’s oldest bridge, Portland Mills, was constructed in 1856 and moved in 1960 from its original location to replace another bridge destroyed by arson. West Union Bridge, built in 1876, is the county’s longest span at 315 feet.

Driving scenic back roads, enjoying the fall foliage and lingering beside Parke County’s historic covered bridges proved an enjoyable way to spend several days in Indiana. If possible, schedule a visit during weekdays when the rural roads are less crowded. Local lodging offerings can be overwhelmed during the festival and we spent three nights at a hotel in Terre Haute, located about 30 miles south of Rockville.

Kay and David Scott are authors of “Exploring the Oregon Trail: America’s Historic Road Trip” to be published by the Globe Pequot in January. The Scotts live in Valdosta, Georgia. Visit them at blog.valdosta.edu/dlscott