OREGON TRAIL: America’s best road trip is a history lesson
Published 9:36 am Monday, March 20, 2023
After several dozen summers wandering the country in a series of VW vans, in 2010 we embarked on a refresher course in American history by following the route of pioneers on the Oregon Trail and returning east via the path taken by Lewis and Clark on their return to St Louis.
The trip proved to be one of the best travel experiences of our lives. The westbound leg from Independence, Missouri, to Oregon was such an exceptional road trip we repeated it in 2017, and again in 2021.
The pioneer journey to a new life in the West is one of America’s great narratives. During the mid-1800s upwards of 350,000 men, women and children traveled the Oregon Trail following a series of paths initially forged by Native Americans and, later, by fur trappers. Pioneers required approximately 6 months to complete the 2,100-mile journey across prairies, deserts and mountains. Both the length and time required decreased as shortcuts were discovered and ferries and bridges constructed. Even with improvements the journey remained difficult and dangerous with many pioneers losing their lives to disease and accidents.
During the trail’s early years emigrants converged in Independence, Missouri, to set out in wagon trains across the northeast corner of Kansas toward the Platte River that spans present-day Nebraska. The trail split from a Platte River tributary near present-day Casper, Wyoming, to cross the high desert and meet the Sweetwater River. The Continental Divide was crossed at famed South Pass in southwestern Wyoming on the way to Fort Bridger before pioneers headed to Oregon by turning north into present-day Idaho. Reaching the largely inaccessible Snake River, they followed the south rim of the river’s deep canyons onto northwest Oregon’s Columbia Plateau to meet the mighty Columbia River that flowed to the Pacific Ocean. It was quite a trip and with wagons bursting of supplies and personal possessions, most emigrants walked the entire distance.
With the Oregon Trail being one of 20 national historic trails administered by the National Park Service and so many road trip options available to travelers why do we consider the Oregon Trail to be America’s best? For one thing, it delivers an interesting history lesson as well as stunning scenery. From the long-grass prairie of Kansas to the Columbia Plateau of Oregon, the journey is filled with impressive landmarks and excellent interpretive centers that offer a graduate course in America’s early history. Another plus is a route that traverses mostly rural America with sections, especially through Wyoming, little changed from pioneer days. Other than Kansas City at the beginning and Oregon City (a Portland suburb) at the terminus, communities along the trail are of modest size. Topeka, North Platte, Casper, Pocatello, Twin Falls, Boise, Pendleton, and The Dalles are pleasant communities easily navigated, even for seniors like us. Roads following the trail typically have light traffic and at most trail landmarks we encountered few other travelers.
Exploring the many natural landmarks that created wonder among pioneers nearly 200 years ago makes this an extraordinary adventure. Standing where tens of thousands of pioneers once forded a river or ascended a hill is an experience long remembered. Follow the trail in western Nebraska and walk along a lengthy depression created as oxen struggled to pull wagons up a steep incline at California Hill. Stand atop Wyoming’s Independence Rock and view the zig-zag path of the Sweetwater River pioneers followed and were required to ford several times on their way to the Continental Divide. Stroll the 9th fairway beside a lengthy trail depression at an Idaho golf course. Stand in 5-foot deep ruts cut in sandstone by wagons and livestock lumbering through southeast Wyoming. At several locations today’s travelers can view names and dates etched in stone by pioneers. During our 2021 visit to South Pass we stood in awe as elk raced nearby before effortlessly leaping a fence. Minutes later antelope sped in the opposite direction along the same fence row.
There is much to see and explore along the historic trail and the experience shouldn’t be rushed. We devoted approximately a month to each of our three trips. It can be completed more quickly, but plan on a minimum of two weeks. It is best to travel from east to west as did the pioneers. Reading a few books on Oregon Trail history prior to your own trip will result in a much richer journey. A suggested bibliography is available in our book. Happy trails!
Kay and David Scott are authors of “Exploring the Oregon Trail: America’s Historic Road Trip” (Globe Pequot). Learn more about the Oregon Trail at blog.valdosta.edu/dlscott/oregon-trail/