In May 1987 we headed west in a VW camper for a summer exploring California and the Pacific Northwest. Driving through Iowa to follow Nebraska’s Platte River Valley and then crossing into southeastern Wyoming, we stopped to visit Fort Laramie National Historic Site.

What an interesting day it turned out to be, for we had unknowingly stumbled upon the historic site’s annual rendezvous during which would-be trappers and traders in period clothing demonstrated skills and crafts of America’s past.

Fort Laramie evolved from a small trading post at a strategic location near the confluence of the Laramie and North Platte rivers to become one of the most storied military posts of the 19th century. Cycling through trappers and traders, and then sergeants and colonels, it served as a cornerstone for America’s westward expansion.

The initial structure, Fort William, was a 15-foot high stockade constructed in 1834 from cottonwood trees. During its relatively brief life as a trading post for buffalo robes, the fort welcomed luminaries including Kit Carson, Marcus Whitman, Jim Bridger and Father De Smet.

The fort was purchased by Bridger and his partners who soon resold it in 1836 to the American Fur Company. The new owner replaced the deteriorating wooden structure with a more substantial adobe trading post named Fort John in an effort to better compete with a newer, nearby trading post, Fort Platte. By 1845 trade in buffalo robes had waned and Fort John faced a mostly seasonal business catering to thousands of pioneers and gold seekers passing by from late May through early July on their way to Oregon, California and the Salt Lake Valley.

Wanting protection for the increasing number of emigrants, Fort John was purchased in 1849 by the U.S. Army that began constructing new buildings including quarters for officers and soldiers, a guardhouse, stables, and a bakery. The new facility was named Fort Laramie and the old adobe-walled Fort John was allowed to fall into disrepair.

Fort Laramie served 41 years as a military post that became an important stop for emigrants who were able to acquire supplies, repair wagons, and trade for fresh draft animals. Many pioneers lightened their loads by dropping off furniture and keepsakes that would have best been left behind. Soaring emigration numbers brought about increased conflicts with Native Americans resulting in Fort Laramie becoming an important site for carrying out the government’s policies on Indian affairs.

Forts constructed along the pioneer trails during the 1800s, including major facilities like Fort Kearney, Fort Hall, Fort Boise and Fort Vancouver, are now mostly memories or replicas. Fort Laramie also suffered the loss of many buildings that were auctioned to the public following its abandonment by the military in 1890. Fortunately, some buyers maintained the structures that were stabilized and restored following the National Park Service’s acquisition in 1938. As a result, today’s visitors to the national historic site are able to get a feel for life on the Plains during the mid- to late-1800s.

The historic site visitor center is housed in an 1884 building that once served as the army’s commissary. Here visitors can view a short film, browse an impressive display of books for sale, and pick up a free park brochure that includes an artist rendering of the old fort during its prime. The sketch identifies the fort’s structures and former structures as to construction date and whether each is restored or a ruin or foundation. Most impressive is the restored enlisted men’s barracks built in 1874 during the Northern Plains Indian Wars. Other restored structures, many of which are furnished, include the sutler store, post surgeon’s quarters, captain’s quarters, bakery, guardhouse, colonel’s quarters, and bachelor officers’ quarters, known as “Old Bedlam.”

Visitors can explore an iron girder bridge built in 1875 by the U.S. Army. A 1.75-mile loop trail beginning in the parking area near the bridge leads to the confluence of the Laramie and North Platte rivers. Other activities include a visit to the site of the Fort Platte trading post, and a walk along trail ruts (Old Bedlam Ruts) left by pioneer wagons departing the fort for Oregon, California and the Salt Lake Valley. A map with directions to the ruts is available in the visitor center. Nearby the ruts is the gravesite of Mary Homsley, a 28-year old mother who died here in 1852 while on her way to Oregon

Although Fort Laramie no longer sponsors the annual rendezvous we experienced, the history, structures, location, and atmosphere of the historic site offer as authentic a feel for the Old West as a person is likely to find. A morning or afternoon spent walking the grounds, exploring the buildings, and attending a ranger program is about as enjoyable a travel experience as you will find.

David and Kay Scott are authors of “Exploring the Oregon Trail: America’s Historic Road Trip” (Globe Pequot). They live in Valdosta, Georgia. Visit them at blog.valdosta.edu/dlscott