Dollywood is a popular, 150-acre theme park with screaming roller coasters and a frontier theme that is probably best known for its co-owner and namesake, country music star Dolly Parton.

Yet this Smoky Mountains retreat, also an enclave of crafters and performers, should be just as renowned for its annual Christmas transformation, when the comfort food is served, characters emerge and the whole place is awash in a sea of twinkling lights.

We recently returned from a weeklong visit to eastern Tennessee that included some quality time at Dollywood, which has long been a major vacation destination for families, especially those living in the Southeast. This was our second visit, and both occasions proved to be fun experiences in a park that offers far more than the thrill of a roller coaster.

Each of our trips occurred in early November during the initial day of the park’s annual Christmas celebration. During this time of year the Dollywood calendar fills with Christmas shows. The park brings out Christmas characters, Christmas foods and millions of Christmas lights. Everyone you see – children, parents and grandparents – appears to be enjoying themselves. There is something immensely satisfying about seeing so many people having a good time.

Old Rebel Railroad

Located in the Smoky Mountains tourist hub of Pigeon Forge, the park is Tennessee’s top tourist attraction, drawing more than 4 million visitors a year. It features more than 40 rides and attractions, a 35-acre water park and more than a half-dozen craft studios.

This park, in some form, has been a tourist draw since opening in 1961 as the Rebel Railroad. Then it had little more than a steam train, general store, blacksmith shop and saloon. It has undergone numerous expansions and changes since then, morphing into Gold Rush Junction, Silver Dollar City and, finally, Dollywood.

The latter occurred in 1986 when Parton, the East Tennessee native and country music star since the late ‘60s, became a partner with the company now known as Herschend Family Entertainment, which had acquired the park nine years earlier.

The Dollywood of today includes a large hotel plus two nearby theaters, Dixie Stampede and Lumberjack Adventure, in addition to multiple other venues inside the park. Spokesman Pete Owens said the park sits on 1,300 acres of land, only 300 of which are developed. In other words, there’s plenty more room for more rides, more theaters, more restaurants, and more lodging.

Dollywood’s best-known attraction is Wild Eagle, the country’s first wing coaster, on which riders zip along at speeds up to 61 mph on seats suspended on either side of the main track. Wild Eagle was named best new ride of 2012 by Amusement Today magazine.

Other Dollywood rides include a coal-fired steam engine, the Dollywood Express, which carries riders on a five-mile trip through the foothills of the Smoky Mountains. Its newest acquisition, Lightning Rod, is touted as the world’s fastest wooden coaster, maxing out at 73 mph. Prior to its initial run, Mayfield Dairy marked the occasion with a themed ice cream flavor, Smoky Mountain Fudge.

In addition to lightning fast coasters, rides for children are offered throughout the park, as well.

Craft Studios

But we particularly enjoyed visits to Dollywood’s multiple craft studios, where we watched and listened as talented craftspeople demonstrated their expertise with glass, leather, pottery and other media. These individuals were not only experts at their crafts, they were good at interacting with visitors who stopped to watch and learn.

One of our first encounters was with Kyle Shelton, a potter who leases space at Dollywood to make and sell his wares. Kyle, who was raised in North Carolina in a family with a long history of potters, has been at Dollywood two years.

Dianne Corey is in her first year at Dollywood but has worked with leather for 40 years. “Dollywood has fostered a lot of great craftsmen,” she told us. “It respects the crafts and pays the craftsmen accordingly.”

Perhaps our most interesting visit was with glassblower Chris Szaton, who explained each step as he fashioned a beautiful oil lamp.

Christmas Season

While Dollywood is a popular summer destination, spring and fall are excellent times to beat the heat and enjoy smaller crowds, especially on weekdays. Another good time to come is during the Christmas season, starting the first or second weekend of November, when the park takes up the holiday tradition it began several decades ago.

Employees begin stringing 4 million Christmas lights in late July. The Dollywood production schedule – the park is well known for elaborate performances throughout the year – reflects a Christmas theme, as well. This year’s shows include “It’s a Wonderful Life,” ”Appalachian Christmas,” “Christmas in the Smokies,” “O Holy Night,” and “’Twas the Night Before Christmas.”

Paul Couch, Dollywood’s former director of entertainment, told us during our first visit that the park auditions nearly 2,500 aspiring performers annually, before hiring only about 100. “The productions serve as a great proving ground for individuals who want to be in the business,” he said.

New this year is a nightly “Parade of Many Colors,” which includes colorful floats and interactive characters for the children.

Even Dollywood’s food takes on a traditional Christmas flavor. Executive Chef Steve Carideo says the park’s food service reflects the season with such traditional fare as Cornish hen, sweet potato casserole, green beans and a hot chocolate station. Other holiday favorites include turkey and dressing, Christmas ham, and mashed potatoes and gravy. Special desserts, such as pumpkin pie and pumpkin spice funnel cakes, are offered, as well.

Staying at Dollywood

Dollywood guests and visitors to Pigeon Forge will find tens of thousands of hotel rooms, reflecting a range of price and quality. We found it convenient to stay at Dollywood’s new, 307-room DreamMore Resort, which offers a free shuttle to the park. The area’s normally heavy traffic makes the shuttle a significant benefit.

In addition, guests at the DreamMore Resort receive free parking, a complimentary TimeSaver Pass that allows reservations on busy park rides, and early entry to the park on Saturdays. The hotel grounds are quite beautiful, and we found the rooms to be comfortable. Several fire pits near a large swimming pool offer a place to relax during cool evenings.

However, it was the ability to hop on the shuttle and return to the hotel in a matter of minutes when the park closed that sold us on our decision to stay at the hotel. Rates begin at about $150 per night, depending upon the season and day of the week.

In addition, Dollywood offers more than 100 cabins of various size, with amenities that can include gas fireplaces, kitchens, hot tubs and whirlpool spas. Cabin guests enjoy free parking at Dollywood but don’t have the shuttle service available to resort guests. Cabin rates range from $180 per night, depending on size, view, amenities and season.

Visiting Dollywood

Individual tickets for Dollywood are $67 for adults, $54 for children, and $62 for seniors. Passes for Dollywood’s Splash Country water park are purchased separately.

Season passes at Dollywood for next year are $94 for adults and $82 for children. A variety of packages that include entrance to both Dollywood and Splash Country are available for purchase, as well. Other packages include lodging.

Visit www.dollywood.com for more information.

David and Kay Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot). Visit them at www.valdosta.edu/~dlscott/Scott